by When Jean Paul Gaultier, the French designer and original Enfant Dirch of the fashion scene of the eighties, in 2020 from the top position of his couture house, he hesitated to hand over the reins immediately.
Instead, the house was designed by a large number of rotating designers from Glenn Martens and Olivier Rousting to Haider Ackermann, Simone Rocha and most recently Ludovic de Saint Sernin. This system led to a variety of virus collections that were presented during the couture weeks in Paris, but now ends when the label in PUIG owners announces the appointment of a constant creative director Duran Lantink.
The Amsterdamer designer, born in Haag, who studied at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie and Sandberg Institutut, can be precisely designated both as a disruptor and as a provocateur. Most of them will have remained unknown until his last collection in March for autumn/winter 2025, where the final look laughed at a male model when he walked in bouncing silicone breasts.
A few big breasts was the butt of the joke, which quickly deserved allegations of misogyny, which was outraged both within the fashion industry and outside of outrage. Another high -flying new designer, Dilara Findikoglu (which was also taken over to take on JPG) wrote on Instagram:
Lantink, also creator of the “vagina” pants carried by Janelle Monáe in her pynk music video in 2018, will know that the decision would be controversial. It certainly feels from Gaultier Playbook, which was done by Madonna’s nineties of Madonna with his 1983 1983, 1983, 1983, 1983 BH.
“I see the energy, boldness and the playful spirit through fashion that I had at the beginning of my own journey: the new enfant terribly fashion,” said Gaultier in an explanation.
“I consider Jean Paul Gaultier as a genius and part of a generation that has put down the doors so that people like us go through them and who we can be without excuse,” said Lantink. “For me, Gaultier is the ultimate house of the creative spirit and the Savoir fair. It is a real honor. It is provocative and continuously presents limits. It is the brand that brings together different disciplines to create cultural movements, to change the language of the laundry and how we carry it on the streets.”
His approach was welcomed by the fashion industry. At the beginning of this month, his cheeks and often body -morphing designs brought him with the International Woolmark Prize 2025 presented by Donatella Versace in Milan.
I will never forget when I met Lantink for the first time during a British Fashion Council Pop -Fair -Champions “Positive Fashion”. Some designers had made skirts from various exotic plant leaves; Others had revised charity clothes into trendy tops.
“I decided to make a kleptomanic collection,” Lantink told me and pointed to his monochrome rail, satin satin briefs and asymmetrical peak blouses in front of a spray -painted shield with alarming shield, “stolen by Duran.”
All of the materials used were in the shop soils of almost Fast Fashion (“H&M, Zara, Mango, Bershka”), he said quietly. “Why not start stealing from faster fashion because they stole so long?”
Lantink will present his first collection for Jean Paul Gaultier for Jean Paul Gaultier in September 2025, followed by his debut couture collection in January 2026.
