by Saint Laurent has the generation skelet. On the last night of Paris Fashion Week, Kate Moss was sitting next to Catherine Deneuve, both in black tailors, pure blouses and high heels. Pedro Almodóvar and Rossy de Palma smiled at the cameras, while Hailey Bieber and Charli XCX stopped their colors.
Saint Laurent’s day silhouette this season is a reverse triangle with wide shoulders that narrow on slim skirts and sheer tights. For the evening it turned upside down, with slim sweaters and large ball skirts. The colors consisted of cocktail ring stones: Emerald, sapphire, ruby and grenade.
Of course there were leopard patterns in silicone glows in silicone gloss. With sloppy hair, stone crystal jewelry, hands nonchalant on bags as banal as a handbag as a handbag with the models, the models distant Paris chic and easily stroll in spike heels to the voice of Nina Simone.
Before the show, designer Anthony Vaccarello said that the look wanted to be clean, no decoration, no decoration. “The Saint Laurent -Ideal defined simplicity of the silhouette – as if it had been created with a few pencil lines.”
Under Vaccarello, Saint Laurent’s house has its sights larger than fashion. The company is not enthusiastic about being one of the leading names in style, but has ambitions to be a cultural power pack. At the beginning of the Paris Fashion Week, this show was moved by its usual slot to avoid a collision with the Oscars, since the Saint Laurent Productions is now a full-fledged film studio and produces the multi-Oscar-nominated Emilia Pérez.
The fate of Emilia Peréz was torpedoed halfway through the award ceremony by the disclosure of racist tweets by Star Karla Sofia Gascón. The film is seen as a platform by Saint Laurent to strengthen his cool picture beyond the style into the broader culture, and Vaccarello has reproduced Yves Saint Laurent’s famous Le smoking Smoking -Smoking jacket from 1966 so that the actor Celeste Dalla Porta wears on the screen. A project supported by Saint Laurent with the director Jim Jarmusch is also in the works.
The cultural ambitions of Saint Laurent are also reflected in an ambitious revision of his Paris flagship boutique in cooperation with the Judd Foundation, which promotes the work of the late American artist Donald Judd. Furniture from Judd is offered for sale in the Paris shop, which are exhibited alongside Saint Laurent dresses and handbags, while an exhibition of Judd’s woodcuts and prints is on the upper floor. The house has also built into the restaurant industry with the opening of a Paris branch of Sushi Park in LA.
