April 23, 2025
This hotel was the setting for a royal scandal – but it is the food that is really remarkable

This hotel was the setting for a royal scandal – but it is the food that is really remarkable

Here is a hotel in the transition. If you open the Grand Drive up to the move of the mistress of King Charles II. In the 18th century it would have looked like everything like an artistically illuminated and foggy set of a period drama.

In Lainston House, on the lobby with rows of Wellington boots, there is a mixture of styles and large stairs that feel sparingly and thrown together. The corridors have golden metallic flowers and swirling carpets that indicate that Laura Ashley is based on a collection The epidemic.

I was in the Delft Suite, which is enormously, listed and has about 30 different patterns in one room. There are blue dolphin tiles and an impressive desk on which Margaret Thatcher apparently wrote some of her memoirs. It is dramatic, but it also feels strange like Consequence shown on the crossroads motel. Even after I managed to dim the lights, I found it annoying.

Lainston House

Lainston House is approaching traditional decor – Angela Ward Brown

While a lot of Lainston needs a rethink, some things are perfect. The cedar bar with curved shelves and cladding from a single tree that fell on the site is very nice. And the new restaurant, the designer Russell Sage for Gen Z Star Chef Tom Hamblet, the Avenue (an indication of the epic parallel lines of lime trees that run from the house to the horizon is spectacular, with careful pale and dark, contrasting forest, amber padding and the most impressive use of 1970s, as they look in an artful medium. Was qualified.

The Avenue Restaurant: Everything was overcrowdedThe Avenue Restaurant: Everything was overcrowded

The Avenue Restaurant: Everything was overcrowded

There are two main reasons to stay in the Lainston House, and both are on Hamblet. The first is to go to dinner; The second is to book for a cooking course the next day. The food that Hamblet cooks and then teaches it to cook is imaginative and delicious and shows an extraordinarily achieved technology. He infuses Trout Roe Caviar with Ponzu, mixes different sea creatures together to complement each other and do things with duck sauce and venison that will be inspired La Petite Mort In every carnivore. You won’t make the more difficult dishes yourself, but that’s why you have to eat dinner here and do the class.

Lainston apple juice and ginger godfather de fruit and salted nut nougat in the Lainston HouseLainston apple juice and ginger godfather de fruit and salted nut nougat in the Lainston House

Lainston apple juice and ginger godfather de fruit and salted nut nougat in the Lainston House – Angela Ward Brown

You probably know who Hamblet is already after leaving the 2023 season winner Master chief: The professionals. I went to Lainston, which had no idea his fame. I could not see a large part of the show in any of his incarnations, since the arrival of Grace Dent is now brought back on board. Apart from the personalities, the TV show has given the management in Lainston to write an empty check to bring Hamblet’s names over the door of the street and to organize sold-out courses at the Season Cookery School in a converted fountain house on the premises.

Tom HambletTom Hamblet

Tom Hamblet won master boss: The professionals in 2023 – Angela Ward Brown

I did some unusual cooking courses and this was the best of them. I doubt that you can enjoy it as I did much longer. Having Hamblet there, leading and inspiring all day is a luxury that his schedule probably does not allow in the long term. But while this is the case, they jump the chance.

The class is really practical, with enough scope so that you can screw up things, always in a pleasant, only stress -free way. I went well with the first stages of my chocolate mousse with miso -caramel, but I packed the second part of the court by earning the wrong cream with my Miso paste. Whatever. I have a little bit with the mousse (one arm Tuill I baked and cut into perfect rectangles. This is a version of the recipe that Dent described as the best chocolate mousse that she had ever tried. I will definitely make it back home.

Cooking classCooking class

Cooking courses are practical in a pleasant way – Angela Ward Brown

A dozen of us were allowed to play with windscues, make a lavish bump blank and then fry part, poached a piece of a huge halibut, which Hamblet listened and healed while we all got to know each other. Then of course we burned down what has done and mocked the lot with a glass of wine.

The energy and the style that Hamblet brings into a pioneering building that passes from scenes from the royal scandal to the private house to the hotel is remarkable. He won his first big prize at the age of 24. It will definitely not be his last.

Woodman Lane, Sparsholt, Winchester SO21 2LT, England (01962 776088; Exclusive.co.uk)

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